back up a bit

I missed telling you about Rangiroa on June 6. I think it was because I couldn't get online.  A glass-bottom boat made it possible for me to see what's going on underwater without actually snorkelling. Wonderful!  We started early, first excursion out so the fish weren't glutted with food. The boat seats ten passengers, five on each side on benches enabling them to lean over and peer down  through two deep enclosures with glass on the bottom.  We gazed through shallow, incredibly clear water at the fishes going about their morning business: surgeon fish, butterfly fish, parrot fish.  Our boat driver put on the longest fins I've ever seen and snorkel goggles and a breather and took frozen fish, snaring  hunks on the spear of a spear gun, then diving down to offer breakfast to the little fish and big ones, too: lemon sharks and black-finned sharks and a bigger fish that played tug-of-war over a juicy hunk with a tortoise--right below us!  We were given pieces of stale baguettes to toss overboard, to see the fish attack it as if they piranhas and the bread  was a man overboard.  I thought it would be a good way to get rid of a body (human) and said as much. See, don't watch horror movies, It's already been done.

That was a lovely day and the weather was divine. The world is so full of a number of things/I'm sure we should all be as happy as kings.  (R.L. Stevenson)

rainy day

And so restful.  Actually, it didn't begin until after we (most of us) had returned from the morning excursion. We are anchored at Nuka Hiva, the last island in the string of islands that comprise French Polynesia. This one is actually the second in size after Tahiti but it is relatively unoccupied and very rustic or rural.  The harbour is beautiful and surrounded by "mountains" (coming from Canada I have trouble calling big hills mountains.) Our excursion filled up all the cars/vans/pickup trucks on the island, I think, with the exception of two SUVs I noticed had been engaged by independent fellow travellers who had managed to find a tour business to look after them.  

It was a simple and most enjoyable  drive: up one mountain and down again; up the other mountain (on the other side of the bay) and down the others, with photo stops along the way. (I tried; I think I got a video of some feet walking.)  We had a pit stop where the inhabitants were selling beads and carvings and things and giving us slices of mango and papaya, fried bananas, and breadfruit chips.  

This is the island that Herman Melville ended up on afar he jumped ship.  He was taken prisoner but allowed to live (and not to be eaten, apparently) and stayed about three weeks (CHECK THIS). The place he stayed was call Taipetai (CHECK THIS); he called his novel TYPEE, something else I must read.

I have been sitting in HORIZONS lounge on the top deck (Ten) and forward.  It's 4 p.m., teatime, with a string quartet and lots of goodies, which I do not eat - just one or two minuscule (delicious) sandwiches, with my Earl Grey, before I go down to the Insignia Lounge, (Deck Five, aft) to play Trivial Pursuit. It's very cold there but I have a blanket. 

I'm fine.